Brushing will give a thicker, more durable coat than spraying for any of these, albeit with a less smooth finish.īest of luck to you! I live in the middle of "the rust belt" in the states, so feel free to ask if you have other questions or concerns. Rustoleum also makes a "heavy rust primer", which has fishoil and other additives that help bond with the rust, but is still only so durable. I'd say this will slow down the spread of rust and its exposure to humidity, but those coatings are only so durable for under a car, and when it chips/washes away the problem will come back. 400,000km and will be out of commission entirely in a few years, or if the POR-15 line is too expensive for your own desire to fix it, you could probably get away with some store bought rust converters and Rustoleum paint. ![]() It takes 2-4 hours for each coat to dry, so it can turn into an all day ordeal, but will last nearly forever. then the POR-15 basecoat, then the POR-15 topcoat (very important, as the basecoat is weak to UV rays). First, the POR-15 metal etching neutralizer, just spray it or brush it on, let it sit for the recommended time, wash it away with water. It requires a few steps but is very straightforward. You'd only need to remove the heavy flakey rust, but the product itself can be used directly over rust, and doesnt require clean metal. Milk Paint Finish is easily layered in order to achieve the desired coverage. ![]() Increased durability and adhesion properties built into the formula means Milk Paint Finish won’t chip. However if you plan to sell it, itll last a long time into the next drivers ownership as well. Rust-Oleum’s Milk Paint Finish creates a subtle matte, brushed effect with a light texture. For the undercarriage / frame, look into a product line called "POR-15" (stand for "Paint Over Rust"), although it could be considered overkill if the car only has a couple years of life left.
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